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Introduction to Öko-Tex 100 Öko-Tex
100 is one of the most well known labels for textile products guaranteeing
product safety. When your products are certified with the Öko-tex 100 mark, it
is guaranteed that the products do not contain hazardous substances. European
consumers are becoming more and more aware of product safety. As a result,
producers and retailers want to make sure that their products indeed are safe. Examples
of well-known restricted substances for Öko-Tex 100 Substance
Tested Methods
/ Standards / Regulations Azo Dyes 2002/62/EC Soluble
Heavy Metals ICP-MS Lead and
Cadmium containing compounds ICP-MS Nickel
compounds EN
1810 / EN 1811 / EN 12472 Allergenous
and Carcinogenic Disperse Dyes HPLC Chlorinated
Phenols (PCP, TeCP, TriCP) DIN
53313 Orthophenylphenol
(OPP) GC-MS Chromium
VI DIN
53314 Phthalates
2005/84/EC Chlorinated
Organic Carriers GC-MS Vinyl
Chloride Monomer (VCM) GC-MS Organotin
compounds (MBT/DBT/TBT) GC-MS Ozone
Depleting Substances GC-MS Formaldehyde ISO
14184 / JIS L1041 Short
Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs) GC-MS Pesticides GC-MS Volatile
Organic compounds (VOCs) GC-MS
/ EN 71-9 Polychlorinated
Biphenyls (PCBs) GC-MS N-Nitrosamines
and Nitrosatable substances GC-MS;
93/11/EEC Flame
retardants GC-MS Polycyclic
Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) Germany Food
& Commodities ACT (LMBG) section 30 Nonylphenol
(NP) & Nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEOs); or 2003/53/EC Alkylphenols
(APs) & Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) pH value ISO
3071 / EN 1413 Determination
of Odour DIN
10955 / SNV 195651 Colour
Fastness to Water ISO
105 E01 Colour
Fastness to Rubbing ISO
105 X12 Colour
Fastness to Perspiration ISO
105 E04 Colour
Fastness to Saliva DIN
53160 Application procedures for Öko-Tex label Step 1: Selection of the products you would like to
certify
The
first step to the Öko-Tex 100 certificate is to determine what products you
would like to certify. Please note that it is possible to grant an Öko-Tex
certificate for products in all stages of the production process of textile
products, from yarn to the clothing article itself: ·
yarn / sewing thread ·
fabric ·
lining ·
buttons / accessories ·
care labels ·
clothing When
determining what products you would like to grant the Öko-Tex 100 certificate
for, it is important to keep in mind that it is possible that your certificate
covers several articles. In Öko-Tex 100 this is called an “article group”. This
is for example: ·
textiles with physical differences only, made from well defined basic
materials. ·
articles which are physically composed of certified products only. ·
finished textiles from the same kind of fibre material (for example
those made from cellulosic fibres, mixtures of PES and CO, of synthetic fibres,
etc.). In
summary, one could say that a group of products can be defined if the same raw
materials are used and the same chemical procedure during production took
place. As the
costs of certification are partly related to the number of different products
you would like to certify, it is wise to see what products could belong in a
group. Then you have maximum profit of your certificate! If you
have an idea of the products you would like to certify, think about all other
products in your collection with which these could form a “product group”. Examples of product groups: ·
A producer of cotton clothing who
purchases its cotton fabric from one supplier who produces all cotton
fabric in a similar way is able to certify its cotton products under one
certificate. ·
In case you produce baby clothing of
different types of fabric (cotton and polyester) but all your supplies bear
the Öko-Tex 100 certificate, you are allowed to certify all of your
products under one certificate. As you can see, it is possible to
compile various products to a product group. You can contact the Öko-Tex
secretariat for information on the most broad product group that can be defined
for your products. Step 2. Are your supplies already certified
according to Öko-Tex 100? The next
important step is to check with your suppliers, whether the products you
purchase are certified according to the Öko-Tex 100 criteria. It is possible to
certify a t-shirt without testing if all products you use in the
production of for example a t-shirt are certified with the Öko-Tex 100 label.
Obviously, the costs for certification are in this case lower than if the final
product needs to be certified. In the
Öko-Tex 100 application you need a copy of the Öko-Tex certificates of your
suppliers, and the information listed below. So if you contact your suppliers
to inform whether the products you purchase are certified, please ask for the
following information:
·
Class I: products for babies ·
Class II: products with direct contact to skin ·
Class III: products without direct contact to skin ·
Class IV: decoration materials
Step 3. Contact an official test institute and
complete application form If you
know what products you would like to certify and whether your supplies are
already certified or not, it is time to contact an official Öko-Tex 100 test
institute. On the website of Öko-Tex 100 under “institutes” (see related links)
you can find the official test institutes of the “International Association for
Research and Testing in the field of Textile Ecology”. You can for example
choose to contact Centexbel ( In your
first contact with an official test institute, you ask for the application
forms. There is a booklet available “Öko-Tex Standard 100: general and special
conditions” in which both background information is provided as well as
application forms. Next,
you fill out the application form in which you provide all information
requested to the best of your knowledge. The more information you can provide,
the better. It is very important to provide information on all
chemicals like dyes and auxiliaries that are used in the production
process. Based on this information Öko-Tex determines how many samples should
be produced and what tests need to be performed for certification. Step 4. Declaration of commitment In the
declaration of commitment, you declare that you are responsible for the
correctness of the information provided and that you are indeed obliged to
inform the testing institute of any technical alterations. Step 5. Test of sample by the test institute The
sample(s) you submit are tested by the official test institute according to the
standards and methods of Öko-Tex 100. All official test institutes test
according to the same standard test procedures to ensure constant and uniform
test results. You will
receive a test report with an overview of the test results. The test-report is
at this point only relevant for the tested articles. Even if your product
complies with all criteria of the Öko-Tex 100 Standard, you are not yet allowed
to use the Öko-Tex 100 Mark “confidence in textiles”. If your
products do not comply you are requested to have your product tested again.
Please note that if additional testing is needed Step 6. Declaration of conformity As the
applicant, you need to fill out the declaration of conformity, before a product
is allowed to be labelled with the Öko-Tex 100 label. By means of this
declaration the applicant declares, among others, that the products the
applicant sells are equivalent to the products tested. The applicant needs to
submit information on how he or she intends to manage that all products are of
equal quality like the tested products. Moreover,
by means of this declaration of conformity you agree that the institute
granting the authorisation for use of the label is authorised to carry out
random tests on each product under application. Step 7. The Öko-Tex 100 label If you
successfully passed through step 1 to 6 you will be awarded the Öko-Tex 100
certificate. The Öko-Tex 100 certificates can be issued by the Öko-Tex 100 test
institutes and by “Association pour la promotion de l'Assurance Qualité dans la
filière Textile-Habillement (ASQUAL)” and the “Deutsche Zertifizierungsstelle
Oeko-Tex”. The
certificate is valid for 1 year. If you would like to prolong your certificate,
you can do so by means of the “application for prolongation form”.
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